![]() ![]() ![]() With 1,278 pieces, 126 jewels, and 33 functions, the Calibre 89 was a showcase for Patek’s competence. Double-dialed and sized like a grapefruit, the 89 became the latest in a long line of record-breaking Patek pocket watch complications. Patek Philippe hailed 150 years with a veritable onslaught of commemorative editions including all-new models. Patek Philippe Reference 5001T Sky Moon Tourbillon (photo courtesy Sotheby’s) 1989 marked the end of one era and the beginning of a new one To the extent that any manufacturer of wristwatches was known for minute repeaters, it was Gérald Genta, not a “ holy trinity” label, that was renowned in the space. Audemars Piguet was the most prolific high-end source for innovations in calendar and tourbillon watches during the 1980s. In the years prior to 1989, even Patek Philippe focused on simple watches. Anything more than a perpetual calendar or chronograph would require a discussion, a bespoke order, and possibly an interview to confirm that the buyer was serious. This was true at Patek and within the greater industry. The number of minute repeaters, split-second chronographs, and tourbillon watches – both pocket and wrist – amounted to single digits or low double-digits per year. ![]() The watchmaking landscape of today includes 50mm titanium Rolex divers, quadruple tourbillon Greubel Forseys, and monstrously complex products from upstart independents like Krayon Patek Philippe’s own catalog positively groans with astounding feats of mechanical engineering.įrom the launch of the landmark 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in 1941 to the Patek Philippe jubilee year of 1989, simple wristwatches reigned and paid the bills. From the vantage point of 2023, a watch enthusiast could be forgiven for underestimating the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. ![]()
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